Jaisalmer: Rajasthan’s history is replete with intriguing tales of power, art, faith and wit. One such lesser-known yet captivating story is associated with Tilon Ki Pol, a historic gateway located near Gadisar Lake, just outside the iconic Jaisalmer Fort — the only living fort in India.
What makes this gateway remarkable is not just its architecture, but the woman behind it — Tilo Bai, a court dancer (tawaif) whose intelligence and foresight compelled even the Maharaja of Jaisalmer to bow before her wisdom.
A Dancer Patronised by the Royal Court
Historical accounts suggest that during the reign of Maharaja Garsi Singh, artists and performers were often granted royal patronage. Tilo Bai, a talented dancer originally from Bhopal, arrived in Jaisalmer in the 18th century and soon found shelter and recognition in the royal court.
Impressed by her artistry, the Maharaja granted her permission to build a residence near the entrance of the fort, close to Gadisar Lake. The gateway constructed at this spot later came to be known as Tilon Ki Pol, named after the dancer herself.
Controversy During Gangaur Procession
However, the story took a dramatic turn during the annual Gangaur procession, a major religious and cultural event in Jaisalmer. As the royal procession passed through the area, objections were raised by sections of society, claiming that the presence of a dancer’s residence along the sacred route hurt religious sentiments.
According to historian Tane Singh Rao Soda, pressure mounted on the Maharaja to demolish the structure. Eventually, a decision was made to remove Tilo Bai’s gateway to avoid controversy.
Tilo Bai’s Clever Masterstroke
When news of the impending demolition reached Tilo Bai, she sought advice from learned individuals and responded with remarkable intelligence. Before the king’s order could be executed, she installed an idol of Lord Shiva at the entrance of the gateway.
Once the idol was placed, demolishing the structure would have meant destroying a religious symbol — something unthinkable for the ruler. Faced with this moral and religious dilemma, the Maharaja withdrew his decision.
Thus, through wisdom rather than defiance, Tilo Bai safeguarded her home and immortalised her presence in Jaisalmer’s history.
A Legacy Etched in Stone
Today, Tilon Ki Pol stands as a silent witness to this extraordinary episode. An inscription near the gateway still bears Tilo Bai’s name — a rare recognition of a woman artist in royal-era Rajasthan.
Beyond being a dancer, Tilo Bai is remembered as a philanthropic and socially conscious woman, whose life story challenges conventional narratives of power and gender in medieval India.
Her tale remains one of the most fascinating examples of how intellect, timing and faith triumphed over authority — making Tilon Ki Pol not just a monument, but a symbol of wit and resilience.
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